CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING YOUR CAVAPOO PUPPY FROM LIER*CHON*POO.
WE HAVE PROVIDED THIS PAGE TO ANSWER THE MAJORITY OF QUESTIONS OUR NEW PUPPY OWNERS ASK AS THEY PREPARE TO BRING HOME THEIR PUPPY.
STILL HAVE QUESTIONS? PLEASE LET US KNOW. WE WILL DO OUR BEST TO RESPOND TO EMAILS WITHIN 24 HOURS. PLEASE CALL US IF YOU HAVE AN EMERGENCY.
WE HAVE PROVIDED THIS PAGE TO ANSWER THE MAJORITY OF QUESTIONS OUR NEW PUPPY OWNERS ASK AS THEY PREPARE TO BRING HOME THEIR PUPPY.
STILL HAVE QUESTIONS? PLEASE LET US KNOW. WE WILL DO OUR BEST TO RESPOND TO EMAILS WITHIN 24 HOURS. PLEASE CALL US IF YOU HAVE AN EMERGENCY.
WHAT WILL MY PUPPY ARRIVE WITH?
Each Cavapoo puppy will come home with a new puppy pack. Your puppy pack may differ slightly if we are sending the puppy with a flight nanny (due to restrictions on items we can send); however, most puppies will go home with the following:
- Important Paperwork - Your puppy will be sent home with any records not already emailed to you and other helpful information. As Cavapoos are a hybrid of two purebred parents, they do not receive AKC registration information as they are not eligible for purebred registration.
- Starter Harness, Poop Bag Dispenser and Leash (Voyager) - These will be enough to get your puppy started on training. He/she will have worn and walked with the harness and leash prior to going home. We recommend allowing your puppy to use these until they are outgrown and save your money on nicer harnesses after puppy has grown, stopped teething, etc. They can be rough on a harness so inexpensive options are best for this early learning period. If you would like to buy a collar, we recommend one with their name embroidered as opposed to wearing a name tag at this age (they can get stuck in crates).
- Blanket/Toy - Your puppy will be sent home with a small blanket and/or toy that has been used with the litter. They will be sealed in a bag to help preserve smell. These items may not look fantastic but they will bring comfort to your puppy, as they will smell like mom and his/her littermates. We suggest not washing these items for the first week or two so that puppy acclimates to new surroundings.
- Kong -We believe that Kong's help feed, entertain and occupy puppies. We will send your puppy home with a Kong and some suggestions on how to stuff and use it for their training. A sample of liver treat is also included.
- Pumpkin Firm Up Sample - The FIRM UP pumpkin supplement quickly and effectively supports stool consistency for occasional diarrhea AND constipation due to dietary indiscretion. By nourishing gut flora, it supports colon and gut health. As traveling and new environments often cause changes to your puppy's stools, we recommend sprinkling half a teaspoon on the kibble at each meal for the first week - and then as needed. You can find this item here.
- Hydrogen Peroxide and 1 ml Syringe - used to counteract a poison ingested, after consulting your vet (see info on that here).
- Snuggle Puppy - Many of our families RAVE about the snuggle puppy and we tend to agree. Your puppy has become acclimated to a crate but has always had the company of littermates. This stuffed animal product with a battery operated heartbeat pack helps reduce separation and increases your chance of a full night's sleep. You can find this product here.
- Training Treats - Training requires treats and lots of them. A lot of dog treats are loaded with bad ingredients and things that can be harmful for your puppy. We suggest these treats (or similar brands) that are one ingredient. For small puppies consider breaking or cutting them in to smaller pieces. Try a sample pack to decide your dog's favorite. You can purchase more of these recommended treats here.
- Travel Bowl - compliments of our pet insurance provider, Trupanion.
- Other Samples - You can expect some miscellaneous samples of items such as bully sticks, yak chews and other items your individual pup has shown an interest in. Once you figure out which is their favorite, you can find links to what we've sent on the blog. We have also included samples of heartworm and flea/tic preventives. Please consult with your vet before administering these medications.
WHAT DO I NEED TO BUY?
In addition to the items we provide, these are the basic items we feel you will need on hand to make sure you are prepared for your puppy. This is an Amazon based shopping list but these items can be found at your local pet store or other online retailers such as Chewy.com. Please note that Amazon purchases made through our account support the Dorchester Paws SPCA.
- CRATE - A training crate is a must. We love the 24" crate from Midwest for puppies. It's just small enough to teach them not to use the potty in their crate but large enough to allow them to move around, eat and play with toys. When we've gone larger, we have always ended up with accidents. By the time they have outgrown this, they are really only using it for sleep and seem perfectly happy with its compact size.
- SLEEPING MAT - Puppies are prone to pulling stuffing from plush objects so we avoid fluffy beds for the first couple of months. That being said you need something for the bottom of the crate to make it more comfortable. It helps if it can easily be washed when accidents occur. We recommend a simple 24" memory foam bath mat which is better than a blanket but harder for pups to destroy! We would order 2-3 of these (you can also find them at Wal-Mart, Dollar Store, etc.) to allow for always having a clean one on hand.
- BOWLS (IN CRATE) - Most trainers recommend feeding your puppy in the crate to increase their association of the crate with something positive. If nothing else, you need to make sure you puppy has access to water when crate training. A rambunctious puppy can easily knock off the traditional "hanging" bowls that use a simple hook. I prefer this type of bowl that lock in to place but have a removable stainless steel bowl for food and water. We use smaller bowls to control overfeeding and ability to make a mess but if your pet will be alone for extended periods you may want to choose the larger size. Always feed your pet from stainless steel to reduce tear stains and other health issues.
- BOWLS (OUT OF CRATE) - Make sure to grab a couple of additional stainless steel bowls (non-slip is best until your puppy is a little less clumsy). This pick from Amazon is durable and small enough for travel too. Oh, and remember those cheap bath mats (above), they are also great at absorbing puppy water spills and food messes as opposed to more expensive puppy food trays.
- TRAINING TREATS - Training requires treats and lots of them. A lot of dog treats are loaded with bad ingredients and things that can be harmful for your puppy. We suggest these treats (or similar brands) that are one ingredient. For small puppies consider breaking or cutting them in to smaller pieces. Try a sample pack to decide your dog's favorite.
- TRAINING / TREAT POUCH - To effectively train your pup you need positive reinforcement on your side (literally). When I'm training one of our dogs, I have a training pouch with healthy kibble or cut dried liver treats on my side. This is definitely an "extra" as you can use Ziploc bags but I find they get messy, dogs try to rip them and you can't get to the treat as quickly.
- SHAMPOO - No need to wash your puppy right away but accidents happen and sometimes your baby will need a bath. We suggest the Earthbath line of products and also find their grooming wipes to come in handy in between bathing.
- BRUSH - Your puppy will have been introduced to this small slicker brush. They will have used this exact brush in our home. Most puppies don't need anything more than an occasional bath and a slicker brush for the first several months. After that your grooming needs will be dependent on your dogs specific coat. Reminder: Start looking at groomers now and set an appointment for when your puppy is 5-6 months old. It's good for them to learn to be handled and they will need to be groomed a minimum of every other month once they have their adult coat.
- CAR SEAT - Even a fender bender can be deadly for an unrestrained animal so our pets travel in car seats. If you are not using a car seat, please keep your puppy contained in a travel crate properly secured in the car. These seats can be expensive so search for less costly alternatives that attach to seat belts if needed. We prefer these b/c they elevate the small dog to see out of the window (which often helps with motion sickness as well) and have solid safety ratings. Should only be used with a harness (never a collar).
- PUPPY PADS - These super absorbent pads are perfect when you have a puppy in the home. You can place them on your floor when playing with puppy to avoid accidents on the carpet, you can put them under crates and food areas to catch possible messes, you can use them on the floor if confining the puppy to a small area such as a bathroom. They are super versatile and honestly I don't think we could live without them. We have them everywhere!
- SOUND MACHINE - Any sound machine will do (Alexa, Google Home, etc). The sound machine at night helps aid in a good sleep habits. Additionally, the sound machine should be use to introduce your puppy to new environmental sounds (rain, thunder, etc). All puppies in our care are exposed to new sounds beginning at two weeks of age when they develop their hearing senses.
- POTTY TRAINING SUPPLIES - Please refer to the suggestions in the previous email regarding which potty training supplies you will need for your puppy.
- For additional items to consider, you may also want to check out our blog posts on Occupying Your Puppy, Working for Food and Kong Stuffing.
PREPARING TO BRING YOUR PUPPY HOME
Waiting for your puppy takes patience but this is a great time to prepare yourself (get tons of sleep) and your home for your newest member. Here are our suggestions:
- Take some time to decide where your puppy will be located in the home. Remove all potentially dangerous items from that area including cords & wires, chemicals and trash cans. We suggest you get on the floor, at your puppy's level, to identify potentially hazardous items. Identify and purchase in advance any containment items you may need such as gates, additional crates or puppy pens.
- Block any stairs with a gate. Stairs can be dangerous for puppies. While they will ultimately need to learn to navigate stairs, doing so too young or unsupervised can lead to injuries including future hip issues.
- Clear your home of any potentially dangerous plants. There are multiple articles on the internet about which plants (indoor and out) can be dangerous around your pets. We've found the most common in our area to include ivy, sago palm, elephant ear and peace lily.
- Create a safe outdoor space for your puppy to learn potty habits. The best potty habits are formed by taking your puppy to the same spot every time, using a code word or phrase (such as "time to potty") and following any potty with celebration and a small treat. To do this properly please identify which door and area you will use consistently for potty breaks and make sure the outdoor area is free of ants, pesticides or hazardous plants. Also create a back up plan for how potty will be handled during poor weather (don't wait for the first rain storm or snow fall to figure this one out).
- Determine what local vet will treat your puppy and make a new puppy visit. We prefer that your new puppy sees a vet within seventy-two (72) hours of arrival if at all possible. For this reason it's good to schedule them in advance to make sure you are on the vet's calendar.
WHAT IS MY PUPPY'S SCHEDULE?
Your puppy' schedule lets you know what they are accustomed to at the time they leave, as this fluctuates based on age, weaning, potty training, etc. These will also vary depending on which home the puppy is being raised in, but we've provided their current schedule below. We ask owners to try their best not to radically change the schedule in the first few days. Once your puppy has acclimated to all the new people, smells and sounds of a new home you can slowly begin to get them on a schedule that's more suitable to your family. Please also keep time changes in mind if we are sending a puppy to a different time zone. In our homes, a puppy who is not actively playing or eating is either in his/her crate or in a small pen with littermates. It is important that they are familiar with crate time before coming home.
6:45 - 7:00 am: Wake up time! Immediately outside to potty before feeding.
7:00 - 7:30 am: Breakfast is fed, followed by another potty break. Weather dependent, puppies may play outside in the enclosed area or on the covered patio for 30+ minutes. Puppies will almost always potty within minutes of filling their belly.
9:00 am - Potty break (outside) followed by nap-time in crate.
12:30 - 1:00 pm - Potty break (outside) and lunch. Potty break again 15-20 minutes after lunch.
2:30 pm - Potty break and play.
4:30 pm - Potty break followed by quiet time (crate nap).
6:00 - 6:30 pm- Potty break and dinner. Potty break again 15-20 minutes after diner.
7:30 pm- Potty break followed by indoor play, socialization or enrichment games. Remove water bowls and treats/bones for the night.
8:00 to 9:00 pm - Time to settle down. Lights are dimmed and toys/treats are removed from pen area. If using a sound machine, that is turned on softly.
9:30 pm- Last outdoor potty break before bed followed by lights out. Humans then leave the room that the puppy is in and do not return until morning unless waking puppy up to potty in the early stages.
6:45 - 7:00 am: Wake up time! Immediately outside to potty before feeding.
7:00 - 7:30 am: Breakfast is fed, followed by another potty break. Weather dependent, puppies may play outside in the enclosed area or on the covered patio for 30+ minutes. Puppies will almost always potty within minutes of filling their belly.
9:00 am - Potty break (outside) followed by nap-time in crate.
12:30 - 1:00 pm - Potty break (outside) and lunch. Potty break again 15-20 minutes after lunch.
2:30 pm - Potty break and play.
4:30 pm - Potty break followed by quiet time (crate nap).
6:00 - 6:30 pm- Potty break and dinner. Potty break again 15-20 minutes after diner.
7:30 pm- Potty break followed by indoor play, socialization or enrichment games. Remove water bowls and treats/bones for the night.
8:00 to 9:00 pm - Time to settle down. Lights are dimmed and toys/treats are removed from pen area. If using a sound machine, that is turned on softly.
9:30 pm- Last outdoor potty break before bed followed by lights out. Humans then leave the room that the puppy is in and do not return until morning unless waking puppy up to potty in the early stages.
HOW MUCH TO FEED?
There are several reasons we have chosen PawTree for your puppy including the fact that it's made in the USA and we will get direct notices of any recalls (and will make sure you are aware of the same). The other reason we love their food is because it's very nutrient dense and therefore you can feed less but get better nutrition.
When you log in to PawTree and look at your Pet's Profile you will see in the corner the total amount of food he/she should receive in a day. At go home time this is about 1 and 1/4 cup per day. We know this doesn't seem like much but we promise it's enough. Just so you can know and plan in advance, a regular bag of food contains 36 cups and therefore one bag should last you over 2 months if feeding properly. Please also remember that your pup will be getting lots of training treats during this time and adjust accordingly. As they will say in the first training class, you don't want to allow your puppy to "graze" - so put food out around the same time each day - if it isn't eaten in 20/30 minutes, pick the bowl back up and discard its contents.
At go home, we suggest you begin feeding your puppy three (3) times per day according to the schedule above. This means breaking up 1 and 1/4 cup of food in to three (3) meals. Once your puppy is about 6 months old you will want to move to feeding 2 times per day (remove lunch) and using the chart on the side of the bag (or the profile online) to increase food amount if needed based on your puppies current weight at 6 months old. This is also a good time to re-do your pet profile and consider adding in new proteins and flavors to prevent your puppy from being bored. You will want to check this again at 12 months of age. The food we recommend is an all stages diet so it is not necessary to change food when the puppy is an adult.
If you purchased Gastro Pro Plus, simply open a capsule and sprinkle about 1/3 on a daily meal. A capsule should last 2-3 days. You can increase this as they grow or if you notice any intestinal issues such as diarrhea.
If you purchased Salmon Oil or Salmon Oil Drops - Withhold these for the first week home as puppy may have a sensitive stomach during this time and these products, although great for your dog, can make stools more loose. Once he/she has settled in you can crumble 1/2 of a salmon oil drop or use about 1/2 of a squirt from the liquid formula on a daily meal. We usually do the salmon oil in the am and probiotic in the evening.
Please let us know if you have any questions about nutrition for your puppy!
When you log in to PawTree and look at your Pet's Profile you will see in the corner the total amount of food he/she should receive in a day. At go home time this is about 1 and 1/4 cup per day. We know this doesn't seem like much but we promise it's enough. Just so you can know and plan in advance, a regular bag of food contains 36 cups and therefore one bag should last you over 2 months if feeding properly. Please also remember that your pup will be getting lots of training treats during this time and adjust accordingly. As they will say in the first training class, you don't want to allow your puppy to "graze" - so put food out around the same time each day - if it isn't eaten in 20/30 minutes, pick the bowl back up and discard its contents.
At go home, we suggest you begin feeding your puppy three (3) times per day according to the schedule above. This means breaking up 1 and 1/4 cup of food in to three (3) meals. Once your puppy is about 6 months old you will want to move to feeding 2 times per day (remove lunch) and using the chart on the side of the bag (or the profile online) to increase food amount if needed based on your puppies current weight at 6 months old. This is also a good time to re-do your pet profile and consider adding in new proteins and flavors to prevent your puppy from being bored. You will want to check this again at 12 months of age. The food we recommend is an all stages diet so it is not necessary to change food when the puppy is an adult.
If you purchased Gastro Pro Plus, simply open a capsule and sprinkle about 1/3 on a daily meal. A capsule should last 2-3 days. You can increase this as they grow or if you notice any intestinal issues such as diarrhea.
If you purchased Salmon Oil or Salmon Oil Drops - Withhold these for the first week home as puppy may have a sensitive stomach during this time and these products, although great for your dog, can make stools more loose. Once he/she has settled in you can crumble 1/2 of a salmon oil drop or use about 1/2 of a squirt from the liquid formula on a daily meal. We usually do the salmon oil in the am and probiotic in the evening.
Please let us know if you have any questions about nutrition for your puppy!